My friend Mark K. was over the other day and took the Robin Hood for a quick spin.
He pointed out that the left crank seemed off and on close inspection, it does seem to have a slight inward curve to it.
Time for the Johnson bar!
Sadly, for several reasons, the TVBS did not happen this year…
I hope to find a new partner and revive the show next summer.
As a consolation I had a small display on Saturday for a few friends that came over for a BBQ.
I decided that I no longer cared for some of the brown leather saddles I had on various bikes.
I bought some leather dye and thought I’d give it a go.
First up was on old French saddle as a test.
Up next, the honey Brooks.
After drying and buffing I applied a liberal amount of mink oil and buffed out again.
All in all, a nice satin finish.
Hopefully the dye will “fix” and won’t rub off on my pants….
The Robin Hood is slowly growing on me.
I found a nice little saddle bag at the Dollarama.
Good for keys and a pack of smokes.
I also added a vintage “SOTAM” bell, it sounds like the ice cream man.
Last week I bought an old tackle box to help organize my collection of small parts.
A Summers box made in Smith Falls.
Currently listed on Kijiji, Toronto for $280.00
A complete, original bike w/ a working Dynohub and the elusive fork key.
On the left, my current favourite, the Glider Bitsa Semi Scorcher. On the right, a 1969 Robin Hood Bitsa Semi Scorcher.
Although these bikes look virtually identical, they are completely different once you get on them.
The Robin Hood is shifting good but I still feel a small wander on the front end. I am warming up to it.
The only possible cause at this point is the tire…
I’ll probably use it today for my downtown errands and report back.
The Robin Hood was out yesterday for a good trial and has returned with a good report.
Shifts well, handles well, looks good.
Problems include tightening of handle bars and
a vintage BELT (Japan) leather saddle that needs some breaking in.
Several applications of mink oil seem to be helping.
Tried the ol’ string test on the Robin Hood and it passed…
I then loosened the front wheel bearing cone and it seems to have improved
but I’m not 100% on this one.
Took the hub apart and re assembled, still doesn’t shift properly.
I’ll try a different trigger today and see if that helps.
Here’ a quick tutorial on how to check your frame with a piece of string.
The Robin Hood has 2 issues to address.
1-the bike is not tracking well. The front end wanders. Not sure why, Everything is straight and appears true. It has a 26 x 1 1/4 rim up front.
2-it doesn’t want to engage in first gear. The hub (1965) appeared good but I didn’t take it apart.Cable is new and seems properly adjusted.
I’ll fiddle with it some more and if that fails, I’ll have a look inside.
I had this one out for a full day of city errands last week and other than getting caught in the rain, it was an absolute pleasure to ride.
Without the fenders and chain guard the bike is virtually silent, no rattles or squeaks.
At 50+ years the fenders and chain guards on these bikes are generally pretty rough and beat up. They’e stored in the garage for future projects.
I made it up to Yonge and Eglinton (Uphill all the way) and stayed on the pedals the entire way…no pushing.
One of the nicest hubs and shifters in the fleet and with a 19T cog on the back the gearing is just right.
According to George at Parts Unknown, the Raleigh built Glider frames have a different geometry than a true Raleigh.
Another custom built Raleigh 3 Speed, year unknown, for sale on Kijiji, Toronto.
The owner has obviously spent considerable time and money on this one.
It has the somewhat rare and short-lived “throttle” shifter from circa 1967.
Awhile back I found a very nice Eastman leather saddle, the problem was finding a 3 rail saddle clamp…
Brooks has one at 19 pounds ($60.00 by the time it reached me) .
I managed to adapt a “flat” clamp that seems to work.
I just need to find some appropriate black grips and we’ll call this one finished.
It’s only been about 10 years…
I put this one together after seeing a Pashley Path Racer on display but couldn’t afford the price.
Also has the MKS 3000 pedals.
Posted on Kijiji, Toronto at a reasonable $95.00 OBO.
Could be a nice project for someone…
Looks to date from 1969 or so.
Sorry I haven’t posted anything for awhile….
I picked up an abandoned project bike a couple of weeks ago. A 1969 tall Robin Hood frame and a box of assorted parts.
The young man that I bought the bike from was frustrated by the cotter pins and moved on to a 1962 Glider project which turned out quite nice (photos to come).
This was a quick turn around as the bike, although in pieces was mostly there.
I installed a ’65 hub and wheel on the back and a Canadian made rim up front.
Tires are new and all the bearings were re-packed.
The saddle is leather, made by Pure City and was reasonably priced at $70.00 from The Bike House in Kensington Market.
Calipers levers and new cables were all included in the purchase along with new bearings, brake pads and other assorted useable parts.
A very nice trigger was also in the box.
I’m running an 18T cog on the back which I’ll probably swap out for a 20 or 22.
The chain is used.
All in all a nice project at a reasonable price.
I took the bike out today for a short shakedown ride and have some notes:
All in all, quite sturdy and rideable.
-One cotter seems to be loose and needs seating.
-Will swap out rear cog with a 22T next weekend.
-A fresh chain would improve the appearance.
Reader Steve P. has sent some photos of his project bike.
“Hi, Greg: I know the bicycle looks ragged out, and it should, considering that it has been out in the West Texas desert for who knows how long! I plan to keep the frame and fork as it is, and replace most of the parts. Including, possibly, the wheels. But, I want the handlebars to be the same style as they were-only fresher. Please post whichever photos you like. They have been reduced in file size for online publishing. And anyone who wants to help out would be greatly appreciated.”
Steve, looking at your photos I would be hesitant to spend a lot of money on a restoration. Replacement parts are available from Indian suppliers but their quality can be dubious at best.
These bikes are still built in India, based on old British designs.
Here’s an Indian built BSA Roadster.
I would look around for a clean Raleigh Tourist and spend my time and resources on it instead. Just my opinion. Here’s a full restoration package offered by Highnelly for close to $1000.00
Keep us posted with any updates.
There’s a bike parked up the street from me that looked to be a Raleigh 10 speed but branded a “Centurian”.
A little research turned up an interesting story….
“According to Frank J. Berto, Raleigh Industries of America had been looking at a Japanese source for their Grand Prix model. Raleigh America ordered 2,000 bicycles from Tano and Company of Osaka but their parent company in England, TI-Raleigh, disapproved — concerned that the Tano-built bikes were too well made and would have outsold their own British bikes.
Raleigh’s sales agent, Mitchell Weiner, who was reading The New Centurions at the time, took receipt of the bikes, placed Centurion decals on the bikes and marketed them successfully, subsequently forming Western State Imports after merging with Rick Wilson’s company, Wil-Go of Santa Clara, California. Because the bikes had all been intended as Raleigh Grand Prix models, as Centurions, they carried the colors of the Raleigh America Grand Prix model.”
The original Raleigh version.
Here’s another local (Toronto) Raleigh for sale.
The stamped eye on the heron indicates it was built prior to 1961.
Also, the proprietary calipers and cables.
Seller is asking $180.00.
A reader has identified it as a 1961 Superbe.