This one is reasonably priced at $150.00 on Kijiji Toronto. It appears complete and in good condition and a large frame. It has the self adjusting brakes which would make it a 1973-1974 model.
This bike showed up today on Kijiji Toronto with an asking price of $350.00. I think I’ve posted this one previously. Since then I think it’s had some upgrades since then.
It was originally French racing blue but I had the royal so decided to use this as my budget for this bike was low.
The front brakes are Maillard /Sram drum and the rear are Scam/Sachs coaster .
When I bought the bike it had non standard 50T modern Shimano (square bottom bracket).which, being aluminium wore out along with the chain which was never compatible with the the Sram rear cog.
I removed this chainwheel and replaced it with a steel 44T and re-greased the bottom bracket bearings and head bearings .
I was pleased the bottom bracket wasn’t sealed as it was my intention to make it look older.
A reader sent this one in. Anyone have an idea what it is?
The current owner Patrick from Mayo Ireland who I recently sold it to has in my opinion done a superb restoration .
Not knowing what it was before restoration he chose the current decal shown in the pictures supplied.
Reader Samuel S. has sent some photos of his Robin Hood restoration in progress.
It is a work in progress, I just ordered some parts from Harris Cyclery, and have been polishing up the chrome while I’m waiting. So far its cleaning up nice, I will get some pics together once the parts come in. Your site is great thanks!
Here are some photos of the 1968 Robin Hood, It was a gift from Shawn Granton, the founder of the Society of Three Speeds here in Portland OR. He is a gentleman and a scholar! I have started cleaning some of the rust off the chrome with water and tin foil, seems to work like magic. I took the old break pads off and have some Kool Stop Continentals to put on. So far I ordered, a Sturmey Archer Trigger, a S.A. 3 Speed shift cable, cork grips, and Kenda Black wall tires, some tubes, and a new 1/8″ chain. I plan on looking for some “rat trap” style peddles at the local bike co-op. I want to install new break cables as well. I have no experience working on three speeds and limited experience with bike mechanics in general, so this will be a good/ fun learning experience. I have really enjoyed exploring your website. I will send more pictures as this project progresses.
Reader Diarmuid C. writes:
“I thought be interested in seeing some more of my Bicycles. I’d love a mention on your site, I’m from Limerick Ireland .The bicycle here is a 4 speed BSA I bought at Charleville (Ireland) vintage show for 120 euros .it has unusual front rod brakes. I’ve cleaned all the dirt and grime and plan to leave it distressed.”
Another submission from Diarmuid C.
“This is the Royal Enfield I restored myself.It was used as a film prop in the Irish Film drama “Rebellion “just before I bought the bike, it was at one stage a 3 speed before it was converted to to single.I decided to make it 3 speed again with a Dyno hub.I Had a lot of trouble fitting the carrier because the rear axle isn’t Long enough to accommodate the mudguard brackets and the carrier.So I mounted the mudguard brackets on a separate bolt behind the axle. I’ve included before and after pictures”
I decided not to paint this bike for the time being. I was anxious to get it back together and take advantage of the warm fall weather. Costs to date:
Bike purchase @ $50.00
New Tires @ $32.00
New Cables @ $18.00
New Brake Pads @ $6.00
Brake lever ferrule @ .40 cents (Outrageous!)
The chain ring crank needs to be straightened and I’ll repaint later.
Saddle is OK for now but will look for a vintage leather one.
I’ve also replaced both calipers with “newer” versions to do away with the proprietary earlier ones.
Took it for a shakedown ride today and have a few adjustments to make.
Bike has already stripped down and some evidence as to it’s originality have been found.
Hub dates from July 1961. There’s a serial number on the BB.
Another on the top of the seat tube. The third digit would appear the represent 1961.
RC = Raleigh Canada Export
BB number still a mystery.
Original colour on the fork tube, a light aqua blue..
As well as a mounting lug for a full chain case and an oil port.
The chromed fork ends also leads me to believe that 1961 is correct.
I started to sand the frame and the old decal set was revealed, briefly.
Definetly a Superbe.
Hard to see but the Superbe logo is still there followed by 2 stars.
I also think the white painted head tube suggests a Canadian export model. There’a a faint Made in England decal where it should be as well.
This one literally showed up in my backyard yesterday…
My neighbour, Dan had bought it last week, removed the dynohub and decided he didn’t want it. We agreed on a price, $50.00 and there you have it.
1961 Raleigh Superbe
Rims and hub are clean
Chromed fork ends
Locking fork (no key)
Shifter cable seems good
Old style calipers that require the special Raleigh brake cable
Non period trigger
Chain wheel crank looks a little bent.
Missing Dynohub (I have a spare in the garage).
A poor repaint (not sure of original colour).
I spent some time on this one yesterday. A Mid to late 70’s Tourist. The previous owner had removed the complete rod and lever brake system and replaced with a simple coaster brake.
Coaster brake appears to be a Shimano CB-100 from 1975 or so. Rear wheel is a Canadian sized 28″ x 1 1/2″ while the front is a British Westrick rim.
The paint and chrome on this bike is in very good condition.
This one’s gone to a new home. Sold at cost to a young woman I work with.
Earlier this summer she’d bought this bike. A 1969 CCM Galaxie.
The Galaxie went to her room mate and she traded up to the Raleigh.
Picked this one up today for a reasonable $100.00 (CDN). The young lady I bought from was moving and wants to buy something more modern.
She told me that she’d gotten the bike from a friend’s grandmother and once I started to clean it up I believe her. One clue is the trigger in the flattened position as shipped from the factory. Also the cables and clips are all original and the paint is cleaning up nicely.
The tires were replaced last year and the mechanic had put the front wheel on backwards as the bearing adjuster had backed out quite a bit.
Not sure what I’m going to do with this but I’m sure it will find a good home.
Sadly, this one was stolen a few days after completion..
It was my own fault as it wasn’t locked and parked by a patio I was sitting on……
I couldn’t let this one go with mis-matched tires, plus it needed some refinements as well.
I didn’t want to spend any more money on it but still wanted it looking presentable.
New tires were purchased for a couple of my regular bikes and the discards (still good) made their way onto the Brown Bike. I also added a pair of shortened inverted bars, a newer brake lever and new pads.
The headset bearings were feeling a little “crunchy” and when I got it apart I found that I’d put an extra bearing in the top……
I took it out for a couple of hours today for a shakedown and it’s quite a nice riding bicycle.
The patio bike rack.
Although I like the look of the enclosed chain case it seems to offer more problems than solutions…
Feeding the chain through was a lesson in physics. Gravity was used to install and then there’s so little space to work at the hub to attach the master link.
Once the chain was installed it was rubbing on the inner guard! Even after adjusting it again there’s no way to see if the chain tension is correct. I’m not sure why the British were so obsessed with keeping the drive line enclosed and running in an oil bath….
It just seems overly complicated and fussy to me.
I’ve made do with some less than perfect cables that were on hand for the time being.
With luck I’ll find some NOS ones to complete.
Speaking of cables, these old style brake cables are equally annoying. Once installed and adjusted there’s hardly any room left to adjust them/ The front one was NOS and it’s close to being maxed out at the barrel.
I replaced the fulcrum cable stop with a standard SA version.
Despite my complaints it’s still a nice bike.
I put the paint lid cover back on and it’s now rubbing…
I’m going to give this bike a little “time out” and perhaps it will have time to reflect on it’s mistakes…
“Hey Lady!, Give this a squeeze.”
I had time to tackle the bike today and I did.
The bike was completely disassembled, cleaned and all bearings re packed.
A serial number on the seat post CU 0218.. What’s it all mean?
As it turns out, both cranks were bent. The drive side bent on purpose to clear the chain case. The left side, who knows?
A clear shot of the case not centred on the BB. Could this be the cause of the problem?
The chain case is securely attached to the frame.
The wheels waiting to be attended to.
The brake cables. One with the factory bell end and the other homemade,
These cables and calipers were phased out in the early 60’s.
The calipers are still clean and shiny after all these years.
The frame ready for a good cleaning.
The original unfaded colour under the cable stop.
The spindle, stamped made in England 158.
I loosened the chain case and nudged it forward centred on the BB.
I had a spare chain ring and crank in the shed that fit and once installed cleared the chain case. I had originally thought that the spindle might have been installed backwards but this wasn’t the case.
I bought some new tires from George at the Parkdale Bicycle Shop, cleaned up the rims and hubs and installed.
A nice pair of MKS pedals have been installed.
To complete I need to find a left side crank and and old NOS rear brake cable.